Meringue Milk (leche merengada)

 

Meringue milk is a typical ice cream product that, however, can be easily made at home.

Its name is due to the presence of egg whites, which are an essential element in making meringues. It is recorded that during the 18th century it was already a popular product in Madrid, being named in the novel "Fortunata y Jacinta" by Benito Pérez Galdós. At that time the ice stored in the refrigerators of the Sierra was used since fridges did not exist.

 So that we realize the technological advance that the refrigerators and freezers in our homes constitute, I explain the painful process that had to be used in ancient times.

 Generally in the mountainous areas that surrounded the big cities, although it did not snow during the winter, it used to freeze. Ponds were built, if there were no natural ones, and when the water froze it was cut into large blocks. 

The ice then had to be stored without melting. For this they built the so-called "ice wells" or "snowfields", basically a deep well where snow was pressed or blocks of ice covered with straw or other insulating material were stacked. 

A snow well ("nevero") in the mountains of Spain. The snow was collected in winter and throw to the well were it became ice. Then in summer was collected, cut and took to the cities

The transport to the cities was carried out at night to minimize the melting of the ice, and then could be purchased in the markets early in the morning or through street vendors. 

Ice was used in cooking, medicine and it even equipped the first refrigerators in our homes, which were nothing more than insulating boxes that required the contribution of cold to preserve food.

This recipe is traditional from Madrid, Spain.

INGREDIENTS :

• 1 liter (5 cups) of whole milk
• 1 stick of cinnamon or vanilla
• Lemon peel
• Cinnamon powder
• 2 egg whites
• 250 grams (1 cup + 3 tbsp)  of sugar
• a pinch of salt

In the first place we boil the milk with the cinnamon stick (or vanilla, according to tastes) and the lemon peel (without the white part that is bitter). 

We strain the milk to remove fat clumps. Immediately afterwards we add 200 grams (1 cup) of the sugar, stirring until it dissolves completely. We could have added it at the beginning but I prefer to do it at the end to avoid that in an oversight, if we stopped stirring, it would stick. Let cool, remove the flavorings and put in the freezer for about an hour.

While it is semi-frozen we are going to raise the whites with the rods or the mixer. For this I ALWAYS use sterilized egg whites, I never separate them from the yolk. These packages are found in supermarkets' refrigerators and usually contain 10 or 12 egg whites. The container is translucent and contains a meter so that the whites that are necessary can be dosed. I emphasize this hygiene measure because, although since January 2009 in Europe  it has been strictly forbidden to market eggs from hens with salmonellosis, the risk of infection due to handling defects continues to exist. Since the meringue milk does not cook the white - the heat kills the salmonella - the risk of poisoning would be high.

To raise the whites I use a pinch of salt and a few drops of lemon. Halfway up, I add the remaining sugar 3p). tbs

I take the milk out of the freezer. I guess it will be half frozen with crystals. To dissolve the crystals I use the rods or even better the mixer. I beat the milk until it acquires the creaminess I need. Then I add the whites gently so that they do lose air, with a circular motion from top to bottom. 

When it's well mixed I put it in the fridge - fridge, not freezer - for 15-20 minutes and it's ready to serve, usually with a little cinnamon sprinkled on top. 

There are people who like meringue milk more almost like ice cream, although I prefer it as a cold shake, to taste.

It is a very nutritious and delicious recipe.